Exploring England’s Brighton and Hove

As far as English destinations go, none other is like the City of Brighton and Hove. The seaside town in East Sussex is vibrant, friendly, and filled with culture – old and new. And only less than 50 miles south of London, it’s no wonder Brighton and Hove is one of the most beloved getaways in England.

Drakes of Brighton

My stay began at Drakes of Brighton, a stunning hotel – inside and out – right by the sea. The lobby is open and bright with a spiral staircase that led up to my room.

(Had I known I’d be making this travel blog while I was there, I would have taken more and better photos.)

Stepping into room 404 is like stepping into a dream. The bed is a cloud draped in Egyptian cotton and the bathtub, perfectly placed by the window, is your own romantic and personal spa. But the real breath-taker is the balcony. Don’t look for any doors. The magic is in climbing through the window into your own slice of heaven. AND I can order drinks from Drakes’ luxury cocktail bar up to my room? Don’t mind if I do.

Drakes is also home to Amarillo, the beautiful fine dining restaurant by former Michelin star chef Ian Swainson, offering a tasting menu worth indulging in and drinks worth making doubles.

The hotel also offers event space for weddings and joyous occasions. I’m celebrating a birthday here one day, mark my words.

Drakes of Brighton
IG: @DrakesofBrighton
43-44 Marine Parade
Brighton, BN2 1PE

Purezza

A day in Brighton

The next morning, I hopped out of the cloud bed, into the room’s walk-in shower, and out to WOLFØX Avenue for breakfast, a lovely, warm cafe with delicious honey lattes and more.

WOLFØX Avenue
IG: @WOLFOXCOLLECTIVE
56 St James’s St.,
Brighton, BN2 1QG

New Steine Gardens & AIDS Memorial

The first stop was New Steine Gardens, a small, green space just a block away from the sea. The gardens are also home to Brighton’s famous AIDS memorial created by Romany Mark Bruce. The sculpture depicts a man and an androgynous figure intertwining as they soar towards the sky. The man represents men in the LGBTQA community while the latter represents, well… any human being, really – making the point that HIV/AIDS is not confined to the LGBTQA community, specifically gay men.

Adding another touching layer, Bruce created the sculpture to cast a shadow resembling the AIDS ribbon at certain hours of the day.

Bruce made this powerful sculpture in honor of Paul Tay, Bruce’s best friend and soulmate who died during the AIDS epidemic in 1992, a time when Bruce felt he couldn’t publicly grieve because of the stigma of the virus.

The memorial is now also seen as an ode to James Ledward, the former editor of Brighton’s LGBTQA publication, GScene, and prominent gay rights activist and founder of the campaign that funded this project. Ledward passed away in 2019.

Brighton Royal Pavilion

After the gardens, I wandered my way to Brighton’s Royal Pavilion, an Indo-Gothic architectural marvel that was built for King George IV. Construction lasted from 1787 to 1823, but the pavilion was eventually sold to the city in 1850 and became a military hospital during WWI.

Now, the pavilion is a massive tourist attraction, with over 400,000 visitors per year.
Another fun fact: When the 2013 Same-Sex Couples Act passed, the pavilion hosted some of the first legal same-sex marriages in the country. (:

Royal Pavilion
IG: @brighton_museums
4/5 Pavilion Buildings,
Brighton, BN1 1EE

Brighton Street Art & Le Roy Art Gallery

In a country known for its clean-cut elegance and traditional history, Brighton and Hove is a pop of iridescence on the English map. The city doesn’t push away its street artists, it welcomes them. Each street seems to have its own work, from LGBTQ pop icons like Freddie Mercury and David Bowie, to dark fantasy-themed Alice in Wonderland murals, to silly slap stickers and Disney-themed anarchic calls-to-action.

Hidden from the massive murals and busy streets, Le Roy Art Gallery is an ominous gem in a narrow alley off Bond Street. The gallery, owned by model-turned-artist Sara Le Roy, is a sick and twisted fantasyland of dark interpretations of Disney characters and other normally “jollier” concepts. It’s probably not the best gallery for children, but it’s great for running into actress Susan f***ing Sarandon, who bought one of Le Roy’s Tinkerbell prints a few years back. It’s weird, it’s disturbing, and it’s a breath of fresh, toxic air. I loved it. And if a friendly, curly-headed gallery assistant named Marlon greets you, tell him Daniela from New York says hello!

Le Roy Art Gallery
IG: @saraleroyartist
1 Bond Street,
Brighton, BN1 1RP

Kensington Gardens & Dukes Lane

When I heard there was a Kensington Gardens in Brighton, I’ll be honest, I pictured something similar to the peaceful, green, always-perfectly-landscaped gardens of London.

The Kensington Gardens in Brighton is very different than what I imagined.

Kensington Gardens is a lively and rambunxious road filled with gift shops, vintage stores, and everything in between. I was recommended to wander through the Snooper’s Paradise, a famous and enormous antique emporium filled with everything you could imagine, from really cool thrifted clothes that could genuinely be decades old to historical photography and newspapers.

Duke’s Lane is a little quieter, a little more posh, but just as vibrant. With luxe boutiques and Brand Sixteen Eatery along the bend, this little lane is perfect for a stroll on a sunny day or for a quick espresso martini stop before your next destination.

The Pump House

My final meal was at The Pump House, your traditional English pub. It’s one of the oldest and most historic buildings in Brighton, with its cellars dating back to medieval times. Back in the day, many believed that seawater had health-healing properties, so a hand-operated pump was used to transfer water to the building and nearby hostelries – hence the name.

I ordered the steak & Nicholson’s Pale Ale pie that was awarded a gold medal at the British Pie Awards, according to The Pump House’s official website. Minced beef is cooked in Nicholson’s Pale Ale, then encased in a savory, flakey shortcut pastry, served with traditional sides, mashed potatoes and peas and carrots. It was a delicious ending to the English getaway.

The Pump House
IG: PumpHouseBrighton
46 Market Street,
Brighton, BN1 1HH

Brighton Palace Pier

Brighton Palace Pier shines and was the perfect final stop of my trip. The pier is close to Drakes, and has an amusement park filled with rides, carnival games, live music, food, drinks and more. I didn’t go in to save money, but I did sit back on the beach to enjoy the view. The lights glimmered from the pier as I watched a young group of friends smoke weed by their bonfire. I enjoyed from my own little stash and called it a night.

Brighton Palace Pier
IG: @brightonpalacepier
Madeira Drive,
Brighton, BN2 1TW

My visit to Brighton and Hove was short, but ever-so-sweet. The people are passionate, rebellious, light-hearted and kind. The city, from its history and architecture to its restaurants and bars – is outstanding, and its beachside is paradise. I can’t wait to return and delve into more of what this charming city has to offer.