Great food and greater hikes – welcome to Keswick
I read a travel article that suggested skipping Keswick when visiting the Lake District, but I disagree. Yes, Keswick is a popular town, and yes, it probably has more visitors than locals, but when you visit, you understand why.
Surrounded by mountain peaks and sky-high woods, Keswick lies in the north end of England’s Lake District. It’s the perfect destination for hiking — with low-level paths for beginners and astonishing views — and it’s the perfect destination for those who don’t give a damn about it. Flourishing with parks, shops, a local theatre, cinema and museum, pubs, restaurants and cafes, Keswick is more than just a pretty view.
Arriving…
Stay at The George, a simple inn near the high street that has all the basic amenities, a quintessential pub, and according to a quick Google search, the best meat pies in town. I only tried the hotel’s breakfast, a well-poached eggs benedict brought by a very cool server named Stanley, with a shaved head, half a mustache, half a beard and incredibly joyful charisma. (I did see multiple guests go to town on the meaty delicacies though, a clear sign to return.)
Now, I’m a dumbass and underestimated the Lake District’s constant rain and wind, so I cannot stress this enough – bring a proper rain jacket and sturdy, water-resistant boots. You will need them. If you’ve planned the trip last minute because it’s your birthday and “why the hell not?”, then welcome to the club, and visit one of the Mountain Warehouses in town.
Sixty quid later, while browsing restaurant menus on cobbled streets, an older man approached me, chic in a suit and tie. “Try The Royal Oak,” he said warmly. “I’m meeting friends there now. It’s this way.” We chatted briefly while he guided us along. He was from London, but fell in love with the North, as many do. He packed his things years ago, moved to Keswick, and has called it home since. When we arrived, he found his friends and I found myself a table and a mediocre tequila drink.
The pub’s jalapeno and cumin burger was delicious. A beef burger with mature cheddar, tomato, red onion, a house relish (where I assume the jalapeno and cumin were) and skinny fries. Content and tipsy, I walked back to the hotel to prepare for the morning.
Day 2 – Keswick dining and Derwentwater
Skip the hotel breakfast this time and head to Bryson’s, a family-owned tea room and coffee bar, smack dab in the middle of the town center. It’s friendly, spacious and filled with all the carbs you could dream of. Best part? The outdoor seating, where you can watch locals run their errands or visitors turning their heads, sometimes whole bodies, around to take in the town and clock tower – until it rains again.
For somewhere more cozy, The Wild Strawberry serves home-cooked meals, fresh smoothies, mouthwatering scones and more in one of Keswick’s oldest buildings, painted pink and pretty.
When you’re ready to hike, walk back towards the George and make a right at Lake Road. Derwentwater is just at the end, and is the third largest lake in the District, following Windermere and Ullswater. It’s a place so otherworldly, it was the chosen filming location for planet Takodana in Star Wars: The Force Awakens.
Derwentwater is special. Its tall woods, rolling hills, rippling lake waves and foggy mountain peaks will leave anyone in awe, so much so that despite crowds, there was a unanimous silence through the paths. The wind wraps around you, both gentle and firm, and there is a constant, but comforting drizzle dropped by visiting clouds, bringing chilly, damp solace.
If the weather allows it, you can walk the entire perimeter of the lake. If not, rains will have flooded much of the path, limiting your walk, but don’t fret.
When it’s too rainy for the trails, Hope Park is across the road. The park opened in 1927, initially as a golf course, but has since added impressive floral displays, a bird-watching area, a cafe and more. Even if you did manage to walk all of Derwentwater, Hope Garden is the cherry on top of an afternoon outdoors.
If the rain is too much to bear, there’s the Pencil Museum, a niche, but historical tribute to the pencil, which was originally invented here. For a little more action, there’s the Alhambra Cinema, the Theatre by the Lake and Lakeside Cafe, the Lakes Distillery, Lake District Wine (didn’t get to visit, but it looked warm, intimate and cute as hell) and one of my favorites, Craft Beer Keswick, a small, but charming space serving local brews from the Lakes. Try a pint and chat with locals while the rain dies down.
When the post-hike hunger strikes, there’s The Fellpack, an intimate and eclectic bistro sitting just outside of Hope Park and Derwentwater, on Lake Road. Sit by the window for the full experience and enjoy local brews, views and ridiculously good plates like the fig and ricotta crostinis, drizzled with honey and lemon zest. Add prosciutto for just a couple of extra quid. Fucking delectable.
Walking back towards the hotel, among the uniformed white buildings, your eyes will inevitably wander towards the bright orange misfit, The Square Orange. Serving up stone-baked pizzas, tapas, local pints and one of the best margaritas I’ve had in the UK, this unexpected slice of orange heaven stays busy. They don’t take bookings, but it’s well worth the wait.
When I was sat at one of the high tops, I met Jill, a wonderfully kind woman who just finished a hike and was ready for wine. We bonded over the excitement (and hunger) for our Margherita pizza and tapas (the hummus, the chorizo and the prawns were all excellent), the beauty of the North and our healing journeys. She recommended hiking destinations, the best boots to buy, and when I left my bag at the restaurant, she dropped it off at my hotel like the hero she is. (Those margs were strong.)
It was already dark when I got to the hotel. I smoked half of a joint outside the back entrance and sank into bed.
Day 3 – Markets, Hikes and Stone Circles
If you’re visiting on a Thursday or Saturday, don’t be surprised to wake up to a sea of tents running down the town center streets. It’s market day, and Lake District businesses set up shop and sell anything and everything, from wool jumpers to leather goods to lemon curd (or “cheese,” as they say) galore. I bought the lemon curd (“because one day I will bake”, I say to myself), and a personalized wooden cutting board for my mom from Piggery Designs.
Waiting for the cutting board, I wandered into YONDER, a small coffee shop by the market. It was the best oat latte of the whole trip. A few shops down is the Cornish Bakery, where I caved and bought pasties for the drive back, one traditional and one chicken-and-chipotle (stick with the traditional).
A few miles out of Keswick is Dodd Wood, a wonderful set of hills and hiking trails with a charming cafe beside the car park (newbies get complimentary parking for the first couple of hours). There are multiple trails to choose from, from beginner-level hikes to steep summits with 360-degree views of the district.
Time (and daylight) was limited, so I hiked the easiest bit (still a bit of a struggle if you’re a victim of patellar tendonitis – bring a knee brace!) while awing at the endless rows of sky-high trees. Visit on a weekday and you’ll have acres to roam for yourself. When you’re done, rest up at the cafe, where two hustling ladies serve up simple, but filling meals before the drive home. There are dozens of tables inside and out, but the boulders along the car park make the perfect seat with a view. Devour a Welsh rarebit and salad in peace, and watch cars whoosh by on the motorway in front of a stunning mountainous view.
If you’re in utter denial about the end of your trip, take one last stop to Castlerigg stone circle, just an 11-minute drive from Dodd Wood (or a 5-min drive or 30-min walk from Keswick). The circle is believed to have been constructed around 3000 BC, in the Neolithic era, making it one of the earliest stone circles found in the country. Two massive boulders stand upright at its north entrance, welcoming visitors to the site. With significantly better breathtaking views, and way smaller crowds than the famous Stonehenge, Castlerigg overlooks the High Seat and Helvellyn mountains along the Thirlmere Valley, with fluffy sheep roaming the grounds and locals walking their happy dogs.
I walked towards the car, sad to leave, but satisfied. Keswick is a joy to visit, and the Lake District, itself, is a dreamscape all its own. Maybe on the next trip, I’ll take the lesser-taken paths as that article suggested, but I’m sticking to my guns when I say that Keswick is absolutely worth the stop and more.
For more information, visit www.visitkeswick.com
