Finding Solace (& Great Food) in Aberystwyth
I’ll be honest, I didn’t know much about Wales before my visit. Hell, I didn’t know Aberystwyth was a town until my close friend, Fred, mentioned he worked near the seaside town.
Fred died of cancer in 2020. Ironic, of all things that year. I was devastated, but he left behind a marvelous trail of memories and treasures for loved ones to find. Aberystwyth, Wales is one of them.
Day 1 – Driving to Wales
A year after Fred’s death (Aug 2021), his fiance Maggie and I met up in London, rented a car and drove to Wales. Words cannot express the beauty and catharsis of driving through the English and Welsh countrysides.
The roads are lush and green (and sometimes narrow scary as hell when you’re first adjusting). The views from the high hills are breathtaking. Driving past adorable cows and sheep is pure, wholesome joy. Everything beautiful, exhilarating, and quickly adaptable – kind of like life.
After many winding roads, we finally arrived at a lovely Airbnb near Aberystwyth South Beach. The bed and couch were extremely comfortable, and the outdoor patio was cute as hell. Just watch your step on the spiral stairs, which can be a challenge depending on how much alcohol you’ve consumed.
After dropping our bags off, we headed to the boardwalk. Aberystwyth lies on the west coast of Wales along Cardigan Bay, so being able to stretch our legs and feel the sea breeze after the drive was divine. We finally made it, and it felt like Fred was there to welcome us.
After a few drinks to celebrate, Maggie and I looked for a place to eat. We forgot that businesses closed a little earlier in the UK, but after a quick Google search, we found our savior – takeaway from Penguin Pizza off Pier Street.
Penguin Pizza
8 Pier Street
Aberystwyth,
SY23 2LJ
+44 0197 035 8010
Day 2 – Gwesty Cymru & SY23 Restaurant
The next morning, we migrated to Gwesty Cymru, a charming boutique hotel off Marine
Terrace with a brilliant seaside view. The rooms are bright, spacious, and calming, and the bathroom feels like your own personal spa. The best part? The welcoming champagne.
(Kudos to Maggie for finding this treasure.)
After getting settled, we went downstairs to Gwesty Cymru’s restaurant for brunch and ordered a marvelous charcuterie board with a variety of meats, fruit, and cheeses. If you want a great start to an adventurous, responsible-free day, I recommend the El Diablo cocktail.
Gwesty Cymru
19 Marine Terrace
Aberystwyth
SY23 2AZ
+44 0197 061 2252
info@gwestycymru.com
After brunch, we hit the town. Aberystwyth is quite small, so it’s easy to make your way around the main avenues. With no specific destination, Maggie and I wandered the roads, appreciating the unfamiliar architecture from Aberystwyth University’s classic and traditional look, to the more rustic and colorful commercial and residential buildings.
Dozens of local cafes and boutiques can be found around town. Off the corner of Terrace Road and Portland Street, we wandered into Dylan’s Den, a little shop filled with crystals, home accessories, jewelry, souvenirs, and more. The sales associate even gave us a free mug with each of our purchases!
Dylan’s Den
46 Terrace Road
Aberystwyth
SY23 2AE
+44 0197 061 7794
When you’re ready for a break, Aberystwyth’s boardwalk is nearby with many benches to take a breather, listen to the ocean waves, and enjoy the view.
For our final night, we made reservations at the Michelin-praised SY23 Restaurant. SY23 won its first Michelin star in February 2022 and was recently added to the Michelin Great Britain & Ireland Guide, according to North Wales Live. SY23 is also one of the top five favorite new restaurants chosen by Michelin inspectors.
The setting is sleek, elegant, yet warm and welcoming – just like the staff, who were beyond kind and accommodating – even after realizing Maggie and I made the reservation for the WRONG DAY. We were so embarrassed, but the hosts and servers told us not to worry and sat us right away. We are forever thankful.
SY23 is also run by Fred’s old co-worker and friend, Chef Nathan Davies, and let me tell you – he runs it well. Davies’s ingredients are fresh and foraged from the mountains, forests, and sea. It’s no wonder he’s been featured on the Great British Menu for the past two years.
His plates, always cooked over fire, are a sight for sore eyes and top of the class.
SY23 Restaurant
2 Pier Street
Aberystwyth
SY23 2LJ
+44 1970 615 935
sy23cwtsh@gmail.com
Day 3 – Farewell brunch at Medina
On our last day, we checked out of Gwesty and brunched at Medina, a Mediterranean-Israeli-style restaurant that was originally inspired by Israeli-born British chef, Yotam Assaf Ottolenghi. We feasted on falafels with chili jam, cumin-fried whitebait with veggies, and strawberry-mint lemonade. It was a delicious, yet bittersweet farewell to Aberystwyth before our drive back to London.
Medina
10 Market Street
Aberystwyth
SY231DL
+44 0197 035 8300
info@medina-aberystwyth.co.uk
We did miss key sites like Constitution Hill, Aberystwyth Castle, the National Library of Wales, and more. But I have no regrets. This visit was for Fred, and that’s all that mattered. To be honest, it felt strange being there without him. Maggie and I would have never stumbled upon this town, had we not met. It felt quite lonely sometimes. I couldn’t imagine how Maggie must have felt.
The magic about nature and travel though, is that no matter what life brings, these two things have the power to heal. I’m not saying a vacation will solve all your problems, but it allows you to see life from a different perspective. Maybe you’ll learn something new about yourself on your journey, or maybe you’ll meet new people that will change your life and bring new memories and stories to tell. In Aberyswyth, I was lucky to get both. I can’t wait to visit again.
