Sweet, sweet Treorchy

Treorchy, Wales
Treorchy, Wales


Treorchy is a fucking treat.

Did I expect to go there? No. Have I even heard of the Welsh town before arriving? Not really. 

I booked a room at the Cardiff Arms Bistro & Hotel thinking I’d be closer to Wales’s capital. Turns out, I can’t properly read Google Maps, but my illiteracy did not steer me wrong. 

Treorchy is a humble little town in South Wales within the Rhondda Valley. It’s about a 4-hour train ride from London, but if you feel like spoiling yourself, rent a car from Sixt for a scenic 3-hour drive. 

The Cardiff Arms is right off the high street, Bute Street, with plenty of free street parking around. The main entrance takes you to a cozy pub, popular among locals – especially during the World Cup, which was on during my visit. Check in at The Cardiff’s pub and an employee (in my case, the warm and welcoming Steph) will guide you to the hotel entrance around the corner on Cemetery Road.

The hotel lobby is small, with a couple of couches and an old-school television resembling a warm cabin. The rooms, however, are updated with flat-screen TVs, minimal, modern decor, an extremely comfortable bed, and if you’re lucky, a stunning window view of the valleys. The bathrooms, built with sophisticated dark tiles and great water pressure are a nice touch, too.

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Bute Street


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Treorchy’s action resides on Bute Street. Here, you’ll find groceries, bakeries, pubs, cafes and butchers, with the occasional clothing shop or two, and some lovely home decor. If you’re lucky to visit during the holidays, Bute Street will be decked out in holiday lights as their annual Christmas Parade struts its way down while families eagerly await along both sides.

Hot Gossip


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Ten minutes down Bute Street from The Cardiff Arms, you’ll find Hot Gossip, a quirky cafe with a variety of coffee drinks, tasty food and sweets. I’ve never had a Christmas baguette before – a crisp loaf filled with chicken and stuffing, served with a side of gravy, cranberry sauce and yummy pigs-in-a-blanket. It was a comfort meal to the max, especially on a chilly November afternoon. Top that off with one of Hot Gossip’s special holiday drinks like the chestnut praline latte, and you’re ready for a nap. 

Hello Good Pies


At Treorchy’s holiday market, I stumbled across a mobile pie shop that offers a variety of flavors, like chicken curry, BBQ pork, ham & leek and chicken & mushroom pies. Classic sides like chips, mushy peas and mash are also available, along with gravy or curry to drown in indulgence. The chicken curry pie was a great comfort meal on that rainy Sunday afternoon.


The Lion 


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Treorchy’s second pub, The Lion, is also off Bute. The lively and rambunctious sports pub offers live music on weekends and your typical pub fare. I’d have more to say about it if I didn’t get absolutely wrecked there with endless pints for the England and Wales World Cup match. I met a few great locals who were as welcoming as they were wasted. It was great, and I hope we run into each other one day again. 

Bwlch Mountain 

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As someone born in one of the flattest states of the continental U.S., there are no words to describe how breathtaking any form of natural elevation is to me, and Bwlch Mountain left me speechless. Bwlch’s car park is less than a ten-minute drive from the hotel, or about a 1h 30min walk if you’re feeling active. 

There, you’ll find a couple of benches to sit and take in the view. I could’ve stayed up there for ages, had I not been scared shitless of driving the rental down the mountain in the rain and the dark. I’ll be better prepared next time.

Greggs

Just because Greggs is a common bakery franchise in the UK, that doesn’t mean that it isn’t the absolute bomb. This was my first time trying its crispy sausage rolls and lattes, and when you’re up on Bwlch Mountain with the cold winter wind, Greggs hits the spot.


Cofiwch Dryweryn

Behind the car park, a giant block of stone is painted red with the words, “Cofiwch Dryweryn” – Welsh for “Remember Tryweryn.” The mural is a haunting, but necessary reminder of when the English, despite Welsh opposition and protest, basically kicked out the entire village of Capel Celyn in the Tryweryn Valley to build a reservoir for Liverpool’s water supply. 


Whether it’s the clean, crisp air, the friendly Treorchians or the catharsis from standing atop such an amazing, mountainous view, I always knew I liked Wales, but standing there on Bwlch Mountain, I realized I was in love. The Welsh’s love and pride for their country are felt not just in Wales, but all around the UK, and I can’t help but join in with them.